“Wanted” natural: the wine of the future is organic, by Luca Martinelli (IT)

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Frank Cornelissen is a Belgian winemaker, growing his vines in Solicchiata (Enna), on the Etna’s slopes. He bottles as many crus as its vineyards, which rise from 600 to 980 meters. Although all his red wines are based on the variety ‘nerello mascalese’, mixed in some cases with other autochthonous vineyards, each one tells the story of the territory, and the ‘minerality’ of the volcano, in a different way. Soil and vines do not receive any treatment, and the bottles disclose - after fermentation and maturation – only the vintage fruit, without any addition. Cornalissen’s wine  probably is the wine of the future: the glass content reflects the bunch and the hand of the artisan, of the winemaker.

Stories like this tell the last 15 years that have revolutionized the wine market, and the wine production, distribution and consumption. Period that saw the birth of important fairs like ‘Raw Wine’, bringing to London, Berlin or New York the best of natural wine, which can be certified organic, biodynamic or even not certified.

Statistics only partially disclose the dimension of this revolution: in 2009, according to Sinab, organic or converted vineyards in Italy were covering 42,735 ha; in 2016, "we arrived at 103,000 ha, of which 66,000 in organic and 37,000 in conversion, that is 17% of the vineyard UAA in Italy" explains Maria Grazia Mammuccini, vice president of FederBio and producer of organic wines in Chianti. An element that leads Mammuccini to believe that this is not "the temporary explosion of a phenomenon, but a tendency".

'Today consumers choose an organic wine because it is more sustainable, healthy and authentic', explains WineMonitor-Nomisma, which in 2017 released an impressive figure: organic wine exports grow ten times more than non-certified ones. Sandro Boscaini, president of Federvini, recognizes the existence of "a very important trend: organic wine responds to consumer demand and to an environmental sensitivity of the producer, aware that today he can count on a 'competitive advantage' in important markets, above all the Northern European ones, including Scandinavia". Not only small holdings choose certification, but also realities such as Guido Berlucchi, whose vineyards extend for 500 hectares in Franciacorta, or Ferrari, 120 hectares of property and over six hundred vineyards worked by contractors in the heart of Trentino.

From: "La Repubblica Food", 12 April 2018


Da: “La Repubblica Food”, 12 aprile 2018